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Paris Fashion Week SS27 is underway with 67 shows and 34 presentations, and early standouts include Matières Fécales’ first-ever runway at Place de la République, Anthony Vaccarello’s gold-covered farewell at Saint Laurent, and Anrealage’s 25th anniversary technology-driven collection. Glenn Martens also returned Maison Margiela to the calendar.
The Spring/Summer 2027 season has reached Paris, where 67 shows and 34 presentations are on the calendar, and the week has already produced several headline moments: Matières Fécales staged the first-ever runway show at Place de la République, Anthony Vaccarello presented his final collection for Saint Laurent after a decade, and Anrealage unveiled a 25th-anniversary collection built around color-shifting electronic paper.
According to Hypebae’s recap of the week so far, the Paris calendar includes two creative-director debuts — Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven — alongside returning names such as Sacai, Ester Manas, Christopher Esber and Valentino, which showed in Rome for Fall/Winter 2026. Established luxury houses are staging immersive showcases while emerging brands open showrooms and host re-sees across the city.
Among the early standouts, Matières Fécales — the label led by Steven Raj Bhaskaran and Hannah Rose — became the first brand to host a runway at Place de la République, per Hypebae. The show, titled “Ninety Nine Percent,” was presented on 99 models of color, many of them the designers’ loved ones, and served as a tribute to immigrants and people pushed to the margins. Bhaskaran’s childhood in Montreal’s low-income housing shaped the collection, which moved from pristine white tailoring and a heeled flip-flop made with Christian Louboutin to military-leaning pieces with a punk edge. In the closing moment, models carried eerily realistic billionaire figures around the monument.
At Saint Laurent, Vaccarello closed his decade-long tenure with an all-gold collection, running the house’s signature shade through lamé, brocade, lace and latex brushed with gold leaf. Charlotte Gainsbourg performed during the final walk under the lights of the Eiffel Tower, repeating the line “You are so much Yves Saint Laurent.” Front-row guests included Rosé, Zoë Kravitz and Hailey Bieber.
Glenn Martens, who bowed out of Diesel with his final Milan show the previous week — one of our favorite shows of Milan Fashion Week SS27 — returned Maison Margiela to the Paris calendar with a collection applying the house’s deconstruction ethos to domestic life. A pre-show clip of a silver teapot being squashed foreshadowed the direction; the flattened silver later appeared on a white dress as a standout piece. Womenswear looks included glossy retro-floral skirts and dresses evoking 1970s dining-table prints, with later garments splitting at the chest to reveal fitted neutral layers or, in one case, a cluster of silver blooms.
Anrealage marked its 25th Paris show with “SKIN,” a collection by Kunihiko Morinaga featuring LED digital skins and electronic-paper scales that change color and hue. The show opened with sleek bodysuits and built toward complex pieces assembled from washi, Ultrasuede scales and peeling sequins, ending with six armor-like evening dresses covered in thousands of E Ink scales that flickered through bursts of color before fading to gray.
Why These Early Shows Set the Tone
The opening days of Paris Fashion Week carry outsized weight because the city closes the month-long international fashion circuit, and early standouts often shape the season’s broader narratives. This week is unusual for its concentration of transitions: Vaccarello’s exit from Saint Laurent ends one of the longest current creative tenures at a major French house, while the Courrèges and Carven debuts signal a generational shift among Paris brands.
Matières Fécales’s show at Place de la République also matters beyond fashion aesthetics — staging a tribute to immigrants and marginalized communities on a major public monument, with a cast of 99 models of color, moves a political statement into one of the calendar’s most visible slots. For readers tracking where fashion’s creative and commercial energy is heading, these early shows offer the clearest signals of the season.
A Season of Departures and Returns
: “The Spring/Summer 2027 circuit began earlier in the month in New York, London and Milan before arriving in Paris for its finale. In Milan, Glenn Martens presented his final show for Diesel after his departure from the Italian label, allowing him to focus solely on Maison Margiela, which he has now brought back to the Paris calendar.
Vaccarello’s departure ends a ten-year run as Saint Laurent’s creative director, a tenure that began in 2016. Valentino, meanwhile, returns to the Paris schedule after presenting its Fall/Winter 2026 collection in Rome. Anrealage, founded by Kunihiko Morinaga, has built a reputation for experimental fabric technology, making its 25th-anniversary show a natural platform for its E Ink and LED work.
“For SS27, Matières Fécales became the first-ever brand to host a runway show at Place de la République, and staged it as a tribute to immigrants and those pushed to the margins.”
— Hypebae report
What Hasn’t Happened Yet in Paris
Paris Fashion Week SS27 is still ongoing, and the shows highlighted so far represent an early selection rather than a final verdict on the week. It is not yet clear how the Courrèges and Carven debut collections will be received, as those shows’ details have not been covered in the source report. No successor to Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent has been named in the material available. The remaining houses on the 67-show calendar have yet to present, and further standout moments may emerge before the week concludes.
The Rest of the Paris Calendar
The remaining shows and presentations on the Paris schedule will continue through the week, including the highly watched debuts of Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven. Attention will also turn to who succeeds Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent, a decision the house has not yet announced. Once the week concludes, recaps and re-sees across the city will round out coverage of the Spring/Summer 2027 season before attention shifts to the next couture and menswear cycles.
Key Questions
When and where is Paris Fashion Week SS27 taking place?
The Spring/Summer 2027 edition is taking place in Paris in September 2026, with 67 shows and 34 presentations on the official calendar, according to Hypebae.
Why is Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent show significant?
It was Vaccarello’s final collection for Saint Laurent after a decade as creative director. The all-gold show closed with a live performance by Charlotte Gainsbourg beneath the Eiffel Tower.
What made the Matières Fécales show historic?
The brand became the first ever to stage a runway show at Place de la République in Paris. The “Ninety Nine Percent” collection was presented on 99 models of color as a tribute to immigrants and marginalized communities.
Who are the new creative directors debuting this season?
Drew Henry is debuting at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven, according to the Paris Fashion Week SS27 calendar reported by Hypebae.
What technology did Anrealage use in its anniversary collection?
The “SKIN” collection featured LED digital skins and electronic-paper scales that shift in color and hue, including evening dresses covered in thousands of E Ink scales.
Source: rss
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